Tuesday 7 April 2015

The Three Peaks Attempt - March 2015

The Three Peaks is one of the classic bushwalking challenges in the Blue Mountains. The route starts in Katoomba and travels south into the Kanangra Wilderness Area. Here you climb and descend three mighty peaks; Mount Cloudmaker, Mount Paralyser & Mount Guouogang. Much of this section is completely off trail and even when there is a trail it’s usually faint and/or overgrown. There is history of this challenge going back as far as the 1960’s and it’s been something that I have really wanted to have a crack at for a long time!

Planning had been underway for quite some time in the lead up to our attempt with various potential team members but in the end it was just Mikey and I that were able to make the start. We met at a pub in Strathfield for dinner on the Friday night. We both could barely contain our excitement as neither of us had ever attempted anything like this before. We got through the meal quickly and hopped in Mike’s car for the drive up to Katoomba. The rain started to settle in as we made our way into the lower suburbs of the Blue Mountains and by the time we passed Woodford it was starting to get foggy. By the time we got to Katoomba the fog was so thick that we needed the gps to get down to Narrowneck as we couldn’t even make out the street signs. We parked the car in a side street and offloaded some unnecessary gear from the packs before getting underway shortly after 9:30pm. Leg one of the journey was intended to be about 30 kilometres and have us camping at the Cox’s River between 3-4am for a couple of hours sleep.

Leaving the streets of Katoomba, our walk would take us south onto the expansive Narrowneck Plateau. We quickly left the safety of the streetlights behind us and plunged into darkness. Thick fog with constant rain and occasional wind gusts made for really tough conditions. The fog dissolved any ambient light available from the moon so our visibility was reduced to about 5-10 metres. We felt like we were in a little bubble and a lot of the time couldn’t really see any more than a metre past the edge of the firetrail. Normally a very scenic walk along Narrowneck became a game of trying to work out where we were based solely off of my memory of the firetrail itself. In the end we walked straight past the huge firetower without even realising it! It wasn’t until we reached the pebbly section of trail and the wind really picked up that we knew we were getting close to Clear Hill. Clear hill normally has excellent views across to the Megalong Valley but that night it was like looking into the blackness of oblivion!

After approximately 3 hours we made it to Clear Hill at the very southern tip of the Narrowneck Plateau and swung off the firetrail to join the single track down to Tarros Ladders. About halfway down the descent we stopped in a little cave for a 10 minute chocolate break. Most of the descent is reasonably easy with a few short scrambles but the best part it a set of climbing spikes which take you down the final 10 metre cliff.

We were both looking forward to the challenge of Tarros Ladders in the dead of night and wasted little time once we arrived at the top. It was a quite enjoyable experience but we did need to be fairly careful as the spikes were a little slippery in the rain. From Here we traversed over the ridge of Mount Derbert and down into the clearing at Medlow Gap. After less than a kilometre of walking on the White Dog Ridge Firetrail we made the turn onto the Katoomba to Kanangra (K2K) walking trail. This was where our plans started to slowly but surely unravel.

Up until this point we had been making pretty good time and were only slightly behind were we wanted to be. Once on the K2K walking track however our visibility was never more than about 5 metres. The track is very overgrown in some places which meant that even staying on the path was difficult! The rain although not heavy was constant so between that and forcing our way through what seemed like an endless number of damp shrubs we both got completely soaked. Leeches were also very common in the marshes around Mobb’s Soak. I remember making a comment to Mikey at about 3am that I was glad it wasn’t pissing down. This promptly had us both in stitches for the next 10 minutes or so as even if we went for a swim we couldn’t have possibly been more soaked than we already were! We quickly got further and further behind schedule and by about 4am with a little over 20km covered we knew that we would have to walk all night to even have a chance at a successful attempt. We passed a few little campsites and stopped briefly at each one trying to figure out if we should stop for a quick sleep or not. At that time of the night we were both wired but deep down the body is keen for sleep so making even a simple decision is a struggle. Finally after approximately 25km we found a nice saddle near the top of Mount Yellow Dog and Mikey made the executive decision that this would be where we stashed our packs.

Proceeding with only day packs the going was much easier and we made good progress on the descent to the Cox’s River. The world slowly began to expand as first light approached and we were treated to some fantastic but imposing views of the surrounding mountains. It was really only at this point that you start to fathom the true scale of the mountains in this area. At long last we finally reached the Cox’s River shortly after 7am, it had taken us almost 10 hours to cover the 30 kilometres.



First light on the descent of Mount Yellowdog. Mount Konangaroo
on the far side of the valley - 28km mark



Finally at the Cox's River after walking all night - 30km mark



Crossing the Cox’s River was quite enjoyable but we only got to savour the flat terrain for a few hundred meters. The next big challenge would be the ascent up Mount Strongleg. It was a nasty climb with extreme gradients. It was so steep in some places that we were using the trees and shrubs to pull ourselves up the slippy and loose terrain. Finally after cresting Mount Strongleg the gradient eased off but it was still pretty slow going as the track was often overgrown with shrubs. There were a number of rocky outcrops where we were treated to some excellent views across the valley towards Mount Paralyser (the second peak). The final push to the summit of Mount Cloudmaker seemed to drag on forever but we finally arrived at about 11:30am and slumped down for some breakfast. It was our first proper food since dinner some 17 hours beforehand and as usual Mikey didn’t disappoint with a blueberry & chia pudding!


Incredible view accross the Valley to Mount Paralyser from near the top of Mount Strongleg - 33km mark
 

Mikey had been hurting for a while and had been dropping subtle hints by suggesting cutoff times to reach certain spots. Over the course of the ascent we had both decided on 11am for the Cloudmaker Summit and we unfortunately missed it by 30 minutes. I must say, my disappointment in failure didn’t last particularly long. It was obvious that with better conditions we would have been several hours ahead of where we were and with the tiredness creeping in we were likely to only get further and further behind schedule. This meant that we would have almost certainly been trying to descend down off Mount Guouogang in the dark with no track to follow. Considering the mental fatigue we would have been carrying after many more hours on the move it was more than sensible to pull the pin and turn back.

We spent half an hour or so at the summit signing and reading the logbook. It was incredible to see that there hadn’t been a single visitor there in almost 2 months. It really highlighted how remote and untouched this wilderness is and it was and absolute pleasure to have it all to ourselves. After a while we dragged ourselves up and started the long descent back to the Cox’s River. I had been firing on adrenalin on the climb up to Cloudmaker and now that we were turning back my energy levels certainly took a pretty serious dive. It was however nice knowing that we could take our time a bit more on the descent. We just plodded along and enjoyed the views wherever they were available. We also stopped briefly at the Dex Creek campsite which is a beautiful high camp and well worth another visit. Neither of us were enjoying the steeper sections as the legs were getting pretty buggered at this point. It was really enjoyable looking at the different types of trees and shrubs and how they seemed to vary so quickly depending on the elevation and exposure to the elements.


Finally at the summit caine of Mount Cloudmaker! - 39.5km mark


Mount Cloudmaker Logbook - 39.5km mark
 

Eventually we made it back to the Cox’s River and all that was left between us and camp was the final 5km climb up to the top of Mount Yellow Dog. We had a short break by the river while we fired ourselves up for the climb. Once we got started I was determined to not stop until we reached our packs. The light slowly faded away as we climbed and the ascent seemed to go on forever. There were a number of little saddles on the ridge which neither of us remembered from the previous night so there were several times when we thought we had made it only to have to keep climbing. We eventually reached our campsite shortly after nightfall. It had taken us about 22 hours to cover the 55 kilometres!

We quickly got the tent setup and somehow managed to get a fire going despite all the timber being very damp. We boiled some water for hot tea whilst quickly trying to dry our sleeping bags out as we could hear what sounded like a pretty big storm rolling in. At long last we got into our sleeping bags and enjoyed our quinoa monk bowl dinner, Mikey had delivered the goods yet again! We reminisced over the adventure so far and what things we could possibly have changed to create a successful outcome whilst enjoying a whisky nightcap. The rain settled in yet again and despite falling asleep very quickly it was a pretty rough night. I awoke not long after midnight to discover a puddle in the tent only inches from my head. We had set the tent up in a bit of a hurry and positioning of the pegs for the fly wasn’t ideal. Under the weight of the rain water it was resting on the inner wall of the tent which was causing the problem. I got out of the tent in the rain with my headlamp and somehow managed to get it fixed. Fortunately the adjustments worked and after that we were able to relax and get a few decent hours of sleep.


Our high camp in a saddle near the top of Mount Yellowdog - 55km mark


Our high camp in a saddle near the top of Mount Yellowdog - 55km mark
 

We had a slow start the next morning as it was still raining and it was certainly hard to be motivated to get moving again. After breakfast in our sleeping bags we got everything packed up and departed camp about 9am. The fog was much milder than the Friday night but the rain still fell consistently so we were quickly re-saturated. Despite this we made fairly steady progress along the K2K trail all the while being on the constant lookout for leeches. It was a big relief to reach the White Dog Ridge Firetrail knowing that we only had one serious climb up Mount Derbert left between us and the Tarros Ladders. Whilst only short, the climb up to the Mount Derbert ridge is brutally steep and we took it at a snail’s pace. Cresting the ridge we were stunned to not only see a gap in the clouds but actually some direct sunlight for the first time! The last section of this trail leading up to Tarros Ladders is pretty smooth and one of my favourites so we really enjoyed it. We were also excited about the prospects of the views from Narrowneck which would make for a nice walk back to the car. It was a relief to be ascending the climbing spikes with light this time and we got some cool footage with the GoPro. By the time we had gotten to the top of the spikes the sun that was out some 30 minutes earlier was well and truly gone and all that could be seen was white fog in all directions.


Nothing but fog to look at from the top of the Tarros Ladders - 65km mark
 

Once back on the Narrowneck Firetrail the rain quickly closed in. Leaving Clear Hill behind us we made the climb up to the fire tower for a final chocolate break. After this it was simply a matter of ticking off the kilometres back to the car. Slowly but surely we made progress along the plateau and although we couldn’t see too far, the visuals of the fog swirling over the cliffs was pretty spectacular. It was great to see some familiar landmarks as we closed in on the finish. Finally at about 3pm we reached the safety and comfort of the car. Our adventure had lasted over 42 hours and we had covered 78.5 kilometres with a staggering 3800 metres of vertical climbing and descending!!!


Finally back at the car!!!


As mentioned previously there was simply no regret that we didn’t make it to all three peaks. It was such an incredible experience between two mates in such an epic landscape. It’s funny to look back on how our friendship begun some 15+ years ago and see how far we have come. It all started out with late nights playing video games and over the years our interests have evolved to finally arrive at an adventure like this. The other exciting thing about not completing the challenge is that there is now more desire than ever to give it another go. We will reassess what went wrong and what can be changed and launch another assault in the future. Perhaps the best thing of all is that you never forget an experience like this. It’s the sort of adventure we will both be able to look back on in 50 years and although the finer details will probably be long forgotten there will still be that lingering sense of epicness that remains!!!

Strava GPS Data
Full Photo Gallery

For more info on the route if your interested in giving it a go, check out Ashley's Burke's brilliant website:


                                                                                  Epic Video of the Hike!

 

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